Blender evolves quickly and while life had me busy, it evolved again. I realized a few minutes ago that it has been some time since I last checked the current release version for Blender and sure enough, it had made a few more steps forward while I was dealing with life here.
I am updating my copy of Blender right now from version 2.66.1 to version 2.69 and will get back to my tutorial on the stairs as soon as I have things sorted out, the new version of Blender working, and feel comfortable that everything is working how I expect it to work.
I am going to take a step away from the spiral stone stairs for a moment to look at nodes.
In Blender nodes are the filter through which you send your material through to change the effects applied to your model. They have a hierarchy to them, so that each modification a node makes passes down to the next node in the line until the material is at last applied to the model. Nodes can be combined to merge multiple images in a model and their settings can be adjusted individually to create some very stunning effects that would be difficult to achieve otherwise.
On the Blender.org website the Blender manual says:
Just in case you’re not (yet) familiar with the concepts: when you create a system of nodes (otherwise known as a “noodle”), you’re describing a data-processing pipeline of sorts, where data “flows from” nodes which describe various sources, “flows through” nodes which represent various processing and filtering stages, and finally “flows into” nodes which represent outputs or destinations. You can connect the nodes to one another in many different ways, and you can adjust “knobs,” or parameters, that control the behavior of each node. This gives you a tremendous amount of creative control. And, it will very quickly become intuitive.
~ Blender 2.6 Manual
GETTING TO KNOW YOUR NODES
Nodes are still new enough that they are skilled at the art of hiding from anyone that has only a general knowledge of working with Blender, so unless you have known they were there you might have overlooked them until now. Thankfully they are also easily uncovered for study.
Start by splitting your view-screen into two parts. I like to put the node editor on the top of the other work spaces. Use the editor selector in the lower left corner of the windows to set your chosen window to the node editor (1). In the properties window select the materials tab and look for the toggle button for the node editor (2). When you press it you should have a scene that looks like the image on the right. (click to enlarge)
Those little boxes in the top panel are nodes.
If you take a moment to study the nodes you will see that they have inputs on the left, and outputs on the right. Each of the small circles that indicate an input/output point are colored based on the kind of information they are designed to handle.
- Yellow = color information
- Gray = Numeric values
- Blue/Purple = vectors, coordinates and normal information
Normal links between nodes will be from one color on one node, to the same color on another node. I say normally, because there are instances where a converter might be used to link node input/outputs of different colors.
The other item of note here is the two objects at the top of the nodes. An orange arrow (top left) and a circle (top right). If you click the arrow it will collapse the node down to a small compact image that lets you more easily work on an area with multiple nodes cluttering it. Here you have just the name of the node and the input/output spots. If you want to have the node open, but do not necessarily need all of the information it displays, click on the circle in the top right of the node to hide unneeded details such as images. Finally if you click on the side of the node with the left mouse button, you can drag the edge to re-size the node.
Spend a few moments getting to know your starter nodes, and how to re-size and move them, then watch this introductory video “Blender For Boobs – BASIC introduction to the Node Editor” by Dan Nobles that explains not only the basics of nodes, but tells you how to get a library (in beta) of nodes to explore to help you learn more about them.
The next video I recommend is “Blender Node Compositing” a tutorial by Zoonyboys. It shows you how to build a picture and how to adjust colors in parts of images using masks in nodes, but it is also a great way to see what nodes can do and get a little more comfortable with their complexity and how they work together to create effects.
Following up the compositional tutorial is another tutorial I suggest you watch called “Nodes & Glow” by Sardi Pax on how to blend an image with particle effect to create fireflies in a wood setting.
Hopefully these videos have given you a better understanding of the uses of nodes and helped you get more comfortable with how they are used in Blender.
In part two I left off with a 16 step spiral staircase that was a rather dull gray of basic modeling in Blender. It is nice enough, but nothing to get overly excited about unless you are really into playing with arrays. In this part I am going to bring that step to life using images from CGTextures and the image editor GIMP. You can use your own image resource if you have another one you prefer, and any other image editor, but the instructions here are going to be for GIMP, since that is the one I know best.
Make sure that your image is saved in backup format, so that you can back up to this point if you get lost and need to start over.
Select the staircase and press TAB to enter edit mode. on the array modifier toolset click the eye icon (circled in red in image) to hide the rest of the stair steps. You can also select the frame of the empty cube and the camera marker and hit H to hide those. (To unhide them go into the scene list and click on the little eye icon in the first column after their name).
With a new cleaner workspace, select the edge selector box under the 3D viewer and mark the seams on the step to give a clean UV unwrap.
If you are not familiar with how to achieve this, this is how I unwrapped my step.
First, select select all of the lines around the top and bottom of the cylinder part of your keyhole shaped step EXCEPT for the line directly beside the step part on the bottom backside of the column and the top edge on the side farthest from the step. Hold SHIFT to select more than one line at a time.
Choose “MARK SEAM” on the UV MAPPING section of the Mesh Tools menu. You now have red lines where you had selected the lines.
Select the line at the back of the step on the top. Both corner lines on the outermost end of the step, and the bottom of the edge on the outermost edge and mark them.
This is what my lines look like – highlighted in GIMP to help visibility.
With your lines marked it is time to split the screen and see what the unwrapped object looks like. If you have never split your workspace before, it is as easy as selecting the crosscut lines in the upper right corner and dragging them to the side.
Note that if you have rendered your work, then you probably have something that looks like this….
If you look where the green arrow points, you will see a X button at the end of a small menu that says “Render Result”. Click the X button and you will see a basic grid sheet in that window instead. That is the workspace on which we will unwrap out model on.
IS THIS NORMAL?
In working with models it can be easy to forget to look at the normals. These are the directions your pieces are facing so that when you apply images they look right and your unwrapped UV sheet does not have any unexpected warps in its layout.
To see the normals you need to tap N to toggle the tool window if it is closed, then scroll down to Mesh Display. In that sub-menu there is a option tagged normals that lets you pick vertices and/or faces and set how big you want the indicator to be.
Here is the step with normals showing for the faces to show that all normals are facing outside on the model.
If you find that one of your normals is facing inward, you can select that face on the model and go down to
Mesh >Normals > Flip Normals
to flip the face around so the normal faces the proper way. This menu also has selections for recalculating all of the normals to face either out or inward if you have a lot of faces to adjust and want to just select the entire model.
Now that we know our model has had its normals checked and its seams marked it is time to see what it looks like when we unwrap it.
UV UNWRAPING YOUR MODEL
There is not really anything complicated about unwrapping a properly marked model in Blender. Simply select the window with the model in it and use A to toggle selection so that the entire model piece is selected (orange).
Press U to bring up the UV Mapping menu and click “unwrap”. You should now see something similar to this.
Your image might look a little different, but as long as the layout pattern is not warped out of shape and the designs are not badly overlapping, then it is all good. The important thing here is to have a map pattern that you can apply clean images to and that you can easily identify what pieces go to what model parts so that you can add details.
For example, I am thinking moss on the edge of the steps might be interesting and a more worn edge on the front of the steps to show decades of people walking up and down them having worn them smooth. I know that the darker criss-crossed shape on the top is the top of my step, while the one on the base, with the tail on its side rather than its end, is the bottom of my step and can be darker. I also know that the leading face of the step is the center bar between the two that connects to the series of small rectangles that make up the center column’s sides.
Because I know where every piece will show up, I can also add details in the artwork if I want to, such as runes carved along the leading edge of the steps, markings on the center column, and so on.
How do we add an image to the step, though? We can see the map, but what good does that do us? We now need to save the image so we can work on it in an image editor such as GIMP.
SAVING YOUR UV MAP
I have not actually found anything that says “Do this” for saving the map to send to GIMP, so this is just what I do. I do not know if it is right or wrong, but it is what works best for me until I find better information.
In the UV image window toggle A to select all of the lines and vertices. Go down to the bottom of the window and select:
UVs > Export UV Layout
This brings up the save screen and you can decide where on your computer to save your UV image for working with it. Put it somewhere close to your model, if not in the same folder, since you will want to keep it to work with on this model later on if you want to make changes to how it looks.
The image will save as a .png image.
If you open GIMP now, and open that image you just saved, you should have a image that looks like this…
This has gotten longer than I had expected, and there is a lot more to cover before we are finished with this step, so I will show you how to add artwork to this and apply it to your stairs in the next part of this series.
For more on UV maps check out the UV MAPPING information at Blender.org.
As I said in part one, I am starting the construction of my castle in the clouds with a single step. It seems fitting and like the best place to begin the construction.
I watched a tutorial a while back on how to make a barrel, so I know that an array modifier can be used to make duplicates of a basic shape. That is how I have decided to construct the steps for my staircase, since, as far as I know, that allows the most freedom to adjust the size of the steps until I have something that works.
Step one, no pun intended, is to set the background image into the workspace so I can work off the background to create a staircase that will match the scale of the rest of the castle.
Starting with the basics for those who are new to using Blender, I open a new workspace that has the familiar camera, light, and basic cube shape. I delete the starter cube, camera and light to give me a cleared workspace to start my castle in.
Speaking of my castle, I need to get the floor plan so I can use that as a base to build on. RPG Booster has some really great views of Harlech Castle, which is the castle I have decided to use for my base, and that is where I got my floor plan since I can not get the Shawn Brown site that they link to to load.
So, with a blank Blender workspace, hit N if the toolset pane is now visible and check the box doe background images. We just want one image, the base floor plan map. Click add image and locate where on your computer you saved the floor plan and you will see…. nothing. Don’t worry, it is ok. On the “Axis” set the view to “top” then press numpad 7. Yes, still nothing. That’s ok. Go down to the base of your 3D view window and click the “View” menu. In the center is “View Persp/Ortho”, or, for a shortcut, just hit Numpad 5.
You should now see your image. If not… try again, then comment here and I will try to help figure out where it all went wrong. Usually the perspective is set to the wrong one, though, so always double check if you are in Ortho or Perspective view mode if you do not see your background image.
With all of that now set up, it is time to build the first step. Scroll in on the tower part you want to start at. I am starting on the tower to the right side of the gatehouse, just beside the stables.
BUILDING THE STEP
Click the center of the spiral staircase on the map to place your 3D cursor at the center of the map. Next use numpad 1, 3 and 7 to assure that it is centered and on the ‘ground’ level of the image. It should rest on the red and green lines in views 1 and 3, and be centered in the staircase central column on view 7.
Press Shift+A and select “Mesh” “Cylinder”
You want to add as many vertices as you plan to have steps. I want 8 wide steps, so I am going to set the vertices count to 8. You also want to make the radius match the central post on the stairs. For me that is 0.040. If necessary you can also adjust the X and Y axis locations to better center the column.
Now press R and Z so you can rotate it along the Z axis and rotate the cylinder so it lines up with the first of the steps as best as possible.
Hit Numpad 1 to see the front view and adjust the Z axis so the bottom of the cylinder is on the red line. This can be better manipulated by zooming in and hitting G (grab) and Z (axis) then moving it to the desired position in a zoomed in detail view. Right click to place it.
Zoom out so you can see the column and angle it slightly. Hit TAB to enter edit mode, then select the “face select” box along the bottom of the 3D workspace. You want to select the top of the column so you can use the axis arrows to shrink it down to approximately how high you want your steps to be. This can be adjusted later, so for now just set whatever you think looks good for a step height.
Go back to top view (numpad 7) and locate the face on the cylinder that is closest to the first step location. Select that face. You might have to rotate the view a little to select it, or use B to select using the box selection tool.
In top view once more press E to extrude the face, then X so it will stay to the X axis. move it out to the outermost edge of where the step will be located. Select the box under the 3D viewer that lets you work with individual vertices and press A to deselect the vertices, then Z to go to wire-frame mode, and finally B to use the box select tool. (Note that if you are in solid mode you will only select the top vertices. You need to be in wire-frame so you pick up both vertices.)
Select the two vertices on the lower left and use the red and green arrows to reposition them so that you create a bottom step shape based on the background image. You can now carefully adjust any measurements that you feel are off, such as step height etc, just be sure that you save first so that you can back up if you make any mistakes.
Once you are happy with the way your first step looks move on, just do not spend too much time tweaking it now, because everything will need to be tweaked later on to make it look right.
This is how my step looks at this point. The main view shows the step in selected wire-frame mode with the background image that I am using to construct the castle visible through the orange step. The inset in gray shows the solid 3D image of the step.
My scale is based on the size of the step in the sketch, with a rise that I feel looks good for now. I will build the steps into a spiral and adjust the height of the first step to make the others fit the height required to make a good looking castle staircase out of them.
I may have to alter the size of the steps to provide a better angle for the camera to move in, but I am going to start with this and adjust it as I need to. That is why I like the array method for building the steps, they are easily modified. Worst case, I could simply make the stairs a transition point and separate the first and second floor via a cut-scene if the camera is completely unmanageable. We’ll see. For now, I just want a spiral staircase.
Building an array for the stairs is almost as easy as building an invisible box.
We start with a top view (Numpad 7) in wire-frame mode (Z toggles that).
If your 3D cursor has moved then you want to position it back in the center of the key shape that is your first step, centered on the orange spot at the center of the cylinder that will make the center of the staircase. Do not forget to check all three angles, 1, 3 and 7 on the numpad.
Press TAB to enter Object Mode, then press Shift+A and add a EMPTY > CUBE. The cube will probably be rather large, but that is ok since it will not be seen in the final image and is here only to let us offset the steps.
Press R to rotate it, and Z so it stays on the Z axis. Then on the numpad enter -20 to rotate it -20 degrees. Carefully right click to set that rotation.
Now, select the step object once again and in the Properties Editor select the toolset tab (wrench) and add an Array Modifier.
Set the count to 8 (or however many steps you need to raise your stairs one level). In the Relative Offset you want X 0, Y 0, Z 1 – this will place your steps one on top of the other in a stack.
Click the box for Object Offset and in the selection bar under that set it to the “empty” that you made (the cube shape is called empty).
You should now have a slightly off-set staircase. Select the empty cube in object mode and rotate it on the Z axis until you have a shape that looks like a staircase.
You can also select the bottom step in edit mode to adjust the height or shape of the steps.
Here is my staircase as it looks at this point.
There is a lot of work left to do on the steps, including adding textures and such to make them look more like real stairs and less like a gray mass, but you can see the basic shape and how with one step you can build a full spiral staircase. Want more steps? Just add more counts onto the array. I kind of like the look of 16 steps to create a double spiral up to the second level of a keep with high ceilings.
Play around with these and decide what you like best, and I will work on the next step, adding UV maps and color to the staircase. Just remember to keep a save at this point if you want to keep working along with me on the staircase.
One of the first unexpected stumbling blocks I came across in making my castle, and what lead me to return to Phantascene to provide information to others as I work through my efforts, was an issue with how to make a spiral staircase for a tower.
Stairs have their own list of issues when it comes to 3D and spiral stairs I have found are in a whole new class of their own past other types of stairs.
The first issue is scale. How do you build stairs that are properly scaled for a video game or other 3D rendering? In 3D Game Environments, Luke Ahearn tells us that scale is a difficult thing to measure in terms of a game world. A person who looks properly scaled to their surroundings might be 8 feet tall, while the door they are walking through could be fifteen feet in height. The best way to measure scale is to decide what looks proper in your game world and discover sizes for other objects based on that basic measurement.
For my purposes I need a spiral staircase that can fit in a tower to allow the player to get from the first floor to the second floor. It should start out just to the right of the entry door and spiral around for one level inside of a circular tower that was built just for the staircase to get the player from the first floor to the second floor then on up to the third floor if they desire.
In need of a good visualization of what I need, I did a search for medieval spiral staircases and found two very nice looking examples that are very close to that I want to achieve.
These staircases are good examples, but I think that the tread is not quite wide enough or use in a game environment. There is also something… odd about the steps on the lower left of the sepia-tone image. The rest of the image is very good, however, and a lot like what I would like my staircase to look like when it is finished.
The castle I will be working as a starting base is Harlech Castle in north Wales. My sources for floor plans and images are the preceding page as well as RPG Booster – Harlech Castle and the floor plans found at Harlech Castle’s page on HogwartsCampus.com.
I will not be sticking strictly to the floor design or the overall look of the castle, but I do love the appearance of the castle and will be using it as a base for the seaside castle I am going to build in Blender.
First, the stairs. If you look at the plans for Harlech Castle, you can see that it has four small stairwell towers. These are all roughly the same size, so it will work to build one stairwell and replicate it to the other three points on the floor plan. First, however, the stairs need to be made.
In Blender I start with a basic block which I then stretch out into the general shape of one of the steps. The narrower and taller the step the higher the stairs will rise from the first to second floor, but we need to be careful not to make it too steep or to lift the steps so much that the animations look weird when the player ascends and descends the staircase.
This is where we get back to the tricky scale calculations. I decided to start with the staircase because once I have that made to look right, the rest of the castle should pretty much scale itself around the stairs.
For those who want to get really technical on the scale of a spiral staircase, Spiralstaircase.com has some measurements for what the standard codes are. The important measurements are: approximately 6.5 feet minimum from floor to bottom of stairs above your head, 9.5″ rise on steps, and 7.5″ wide measured 12″ out from the outer wall of the spiral. The suggested minimum stair width is 26″ from center column to outer wall.
Unfortunately, as nice as knowing that is, as Mr. Ahearn pointed out, those measurements are all too small for game space. It would look very cramped and the camera would have a hard time panning around for the player to actually see anything at all. And anyone that has ever played a video game knows that we are all slaves to the camera perspective in them.
What to do then? We make a step and then use our best guesstimates on just how to assemble that into a flight of spiral stairs that looks good on a game screen.
Since the steps will all look pretty much the same, and the bottom will be nothing more than a smooth surface, I will start my staircase with the design of a single step.
I have been working off and on with Blender for a while now, and every time I get a chance to work with it again it has changed a bit or I realize that there is something else I want to be able to do that I do not yet know about the program. I have been working on trying to get things organized for building a video game using Blender and other Open Source programs and resources, but the process is continually tripping over my life’s chaos. It makes me feel at times like I am after the impossible, in so many ways, and so, I decided what better way to blend things than to go for a castle in the sky?
I have been working on a fantasy world for some time now and have decided that I will build a castle that seems to float in the clouds. Now, mind you, I am not a big fan of fantasy things that are not in some manner believable. So this castle needs to have something more than just thin air and clouds that hold it up, but it should also have a mythology about it that it is unreachable, that it was built in the clouds and none can get to it. I’m thin king a craggy cliff overlooking the ocean or high up in the mountains with a continual low cloud cover that hides the peaks on which it rests.
I’m also thinking it is not a lovely white castle of fairy tail design. Rather it is going to be dark and imposing. Something you suspect holds danger for those who dare to enter. I don’t want a haunted castle, just an imposing one. One that makes you think it is the well kept home of great evil. I’m also thinking storm clouds, not fluffy pretty clouds.
That gives a lot to work on as far as creating something in Blender goes, but by the time I am finished with that, I should have learned anything and everything there is to know about Blender. If I can get life to leave me be enough that I can actually spend a few hours a day working on the program and my castle in the sky.
First thing is first, I need to go find some good reference images for what it is that I want to create.
Life is full of roller coaster moments where we are either in what seems to be an out of control plummet to the bottom of who knows what, or on a slow crawl up toward an unknown destination and all we can do is hang on and wait.
I am currently in the hold on and wait period where I have no idea what the next hour will bring, much less the next day, and I know that it has worn on those around me almost as much as it has worn on me. While the things in my life are creeping toward what could be a broken track ahead, I am left with nothing to do but attempt to piece back together some of the things that have fallen out of the roller coaster ride along the way so far. Such as this website and my small business.
I have neither the time or focus for much more than distracted thinking at the moment, but I should have enough focus to start repairing the damage that neglect has caused to my website. Wish me luck on it, I could certainly use some about now.
As the title says, this post will go into spoilers about the end of BioShock Infinite and the content that is included after the credits on that game. If you have not yet played BioShock Infinite, then please pick up a copy and give it a go before you read this post. If you have played it and not stuck around to the end of the credits, I suggest you go back to your last save and check out the after credit content. It is not long, but it changes your perspective on the end of the game.
When I watched my co-op partner finish BioShock Infinite I was… disappointed. So much so that I almost did not finish the game myself. It had left things in a fairly sucky position and I just did not see the point in all of that time invested in game play only to have things then .. end how they ended. I then discovered that there was content after the credits and I wanted to see what that was, so I went ahead and played through to the end of the game. For those who have played it and not seen the after credit content, I must say give it another chance. Go finish the game and check that out, then read what I have to say here. I can actually forgive them for the one ending only on that game.
So, why just one possible ending when we had multiple endings on the other BioShock games? It is simple really, that is the only possible solution to the puzzle.
I am going to assume that if you read past here you have either finished the game and watched the after credit content, or you want to be fully spoiled about it.
Now, if you do not already know this, then you have been warned that you are in for major spoilers, so, here is the fist one. When you finish BioShock Infinite, Booker Dewitt dies. The character that you have spent the entire game coming to love is dead and you have no options throughout the course of the game to change that from happening. And that is where things get… complicated. To understand the end of the game, you need to understand multiverse theory. I don’t want anyone to think I am talking down to them, but I am going to explain in simple terms because I had at least two people that I had to explain in the most basic of terms. So, if you know what multiverse theory is, please feel free to skip the indented section and go on to the rest of the game discussion.
Multiverse Theory is a theory that says that every decision we make, rather it is to turn left or right at a street light, to accept a new job or pass it by for a job we think might be better, every choice we make creates a possibility of “what if we had made that other choice?”
So, if someone pulls up to a stop light and they have no predetermined reason for which way to turn and they turn left, it creates the possibility that they might have turned right instead. By turning to the left maybe they stopped at the store and bought a lottery ticket that won a million dollars, which they then spent on poor purchases and within a year they had blown it all away and were back to being poor.
But what if they had not turned left? What if they had instead turned to the right? Might they have never purchased that lottery ticket? Maybe instead they went past an accident and saved someone’s life. What might have happened in their own life then? Perhaps by turning to the right they save a multimillionaire’s child from being hit by a car and are given a reward of $100,000 that the multimillionaire then invests for them and in five years they are, themselves, a millionaire and have a better, slower developed, sense of value for the money and go on to be multimillionaire’s themselves?
The trick is, that BOTH versions are in some way a reality. The person made both decisions, became wealthy through fast lottery winnings and through a kind deed. So this creates two different worlds in which the pair lives.
Imagine if there were a way for the two to meet. Might the one that had lost their money be angered at the one that had it so much better? Might the one who came into their wealth more slowly feel compelled to give the poor version of themselves a second chance at wealth?
This is the paradox that is dealt with in BioShock Infinite. The question of what changes might Booker Dewitt face if he were to be baptized, and how those changes in one man might effect the lives of those around him, even the world.
Now that we have an understanding of what a multiverse is all about, we can explain what BioShock Infinite was trying to accomplish with the story, that, if understood, is a pretty good one.
At some point in the time leading up to the start of the story, Booker Dewitt decided that to wash away the sins of his past he would get baptized. After this baptism he took on a new name and, seeing the world through a new perspective, felt that the corruption of the world needed to be risen above. This came about the floating city of Columbia. Columbia was everything the new Booker wanted the world to be, but it did not have the one thing he wanted in the world. An heir to carry on and assure his city never fell from the skies.
This caused the baptized version of Booker Dewitt to seek out a way to have a child despite his inability to father children. Enter our Booker Dewitt, the gentleman who is ferried across the sea to the lighthouse where he will go up to Columbia and face off against a tyrannical version of himself.
The hero Booker walked away from being baptized. He turned it down, and thus split the world into two versions. The one where he was baptized, and the one where he was not baptized.
Throughout the story there are multiple indications that there have been other Booker Dewitt’s that have tried to change the fate of Columbia and the world. The brother and sister pair that reoccur is usually the source of these clues. Such as their commentary, the coin they ask Booker to flip for them, with a signboard sandwich-board that has multiple results ticked off on it. The combination to get into the tower is, itself, an indication of how many tries had already been attempted.
It is not until the end of the game, when Booker Dewitt makes the decision to “kill him in his cradle” that the complexity of the situation is fully understood. The only way to save Booker’s daughter is for the Booker Dewitt that went through the baptism to drown while being baptized.
This is not, however, the end of the story.
Observant players will notice that the Elizabeth that Booker spent his time with has not accompanied him to the baptism this time. None of the Elizabeth’s that we see there wear the broach that she still wore just a scene before. This would seem to be insignificant, except for a small matter of multiple worlds theory that fits in with the one “true” Elizabeth, our Booker Dewitt’s daughter, would be the one that wears the choker. By her not being at the death, it indicates that there is a thread, somewhere, where she is still a part of the world.
This is the world we see after the credits.
Booker Dewitt wakes up in his office after we see him having drowned at the baptism. The calendar on his desk is a good clue that tells you this is the day he had handed his child over to an alternate version of himself, the one that had made Columbia. The last we see is Booker racing into the next room where Elizabeth’s crib is, desperate to see if his daughter is in her crib. We never know, it fades to black.
This brings us to Schrodinger’s Cat.
Until we look onto the crib, Elizabeth is both there and not there. It is up to the player to decide if Booker succeeded in stopping the creation of Columbia by his alternate self, thereby never bringing about the events he went through in the game, or… What if Elizabeth is not there? What then? How many possible changes were there outside of the baptism that might have lead to her not being there?
Still. I prefer to assume she is in the bassinet until she is proven not to be by us seeing into it. For now, she is both there and not there, which means that Booker both succeeded and failed in his mission. An interesting study in multiverse thinking, and not one that many would attempt to spread out in a game’s story.
Looking at the game from a scientific perspective I applaud the makers of BioShock Infinite and will most assuredly look forward to their next offering.
During the course of BioShock Infinite, there is a point not long after you have rescued Elizabeth when you meet up with a couple who offer her two broaches. I was majorly spoiled on the end of the game in my own search for what the choice does, so I want to add another search point to the internet to help avoid others being spoiled about the game ending.
There seems, from all that I read, to be no actual game mechanic that is affected by the choice of which broach to take. The item is merely a visual element in the game. So, from what I can gather, you can feel free to pick whichever broach you prefer.
I had assumed the same thing as another person who responded, where the major spoiler is or I would link to their comment, that the item had an effect on how far away from you Elizabeth went when you were making your way through Columbia. That is not the case, however, and the item only provides visual decoration that you can see as a change you made to the character throughout the story line.
I love that such a thing has been added to the game, but it is a shame it did not have an effect on how far from you she strays as you wander. That said, it does have an important role, just… not one that you will actually need to be worried about. Both patterns on the bird and cage broaches have the exact same effects, they just have different visuals to them.
What is the effect? As I said, it is not something that will affect the character or the game play, just… keep an eye on her lovely new broach. I can’t say more without risk of spoiling things for you in BioShock Infinite that do not need to be spoiled.
I rented BioShock Infinite last night in an effort to decide if I wanted to commit to the cost of the game, and yes, I decided that I would be adding this one to my collection. Most excellent game! Then I came across a point where I had a choice to make about two possible options and, wondering what effect the choice had on the game, I went looking for information on the subject.
It turned out the choice is a minor one that only offers you a visual cue as the game progresses, but in the course of reading the information I was blindsided by an unhidden spoiler that told the how the game ends. I’m only a couple of missions into the game, people, and you are telling me the ending of it? What the heck? If you are going to share spoilers about a game, please do so in a way that will not ruin the play experience for those of us who have not yet completed the game.
Now that I know the ending I am rethinking rather or not I actually DO want to get the game, or wait for it to go down in price. Thanks a LOT to the person that spoiled the ending for me. There is no reason at all to completely spoil the end of a game while providing information on a detail about the game, particularly not when the detail is so close to the beginning of the game. When you share spoilers, please, ask yourself if you had not yet finished the game, would you want to know as much detail as you provided? If the answer is “maybe not…” then rewrite it to remove anything that is major spoilage about the game beyond that point. Thank you.
As for the item I was spoiled on – it was broaches, and I will post my own BioShock Infinate: Broach Decision spoiler in my next post.